Burda 03-2011-122: Tropical Wool Pencil Skirt With Pleats

Sorry for the recent radio silence: last month my husband found a job in the same town I work in and we are in the throes of buying our first home. What an undertaking. I found the offer contract confusing, the negotiation process stressful, and the post-inspection bartering antagonistic. And I’m an attorney.

Really, I’m thrilled, as the quality of my regular and sewing life will improve ten fold with this move: my commute will drop from over an hour each way to ten minutes (more sewing time!), I will finally have a dishwasher (more sewing time!), a washer/dryer (easy preshinking!), and a dedicated sewing room (self-explanatory). The appraisal was yesterday, and now we are waiting to set a closing date with the mortgage lender. So if my posting is a little spotty over the rest of the summer, my apologies ahead of time.

While I’ve been away for a few weeks, I have the most exciting project to show you (are you getting my e-sarcasm?): a beige pencil skirt. Wah wah. It is a terribly boring garment, but as well all know, these utilitarian pieces are wear twice-a-week, wardrobe staples.

The pattern is from the Burda March 2011 issue. The pleats in place of darts add a bit of interest beyond the usual pencil skirt.

Burda Style Tropical Wool Pencil Skirt With Pleats

Burda Style Tropical Wool Pencil Skirt With Pleats

Burda Style Tropical Wool Pencil Skirt With Pleats Sewing Pattern

Burda Style Tropical Wool Pencil Skirt With Pleats Sewing Pattern

Pleats aren’t always a hippy girl’s best friend: I sewed this in a size 40, with a 3/4″ seam allowance, because the pleats gaped slightly on my size 38 muslin.

The fabric is a lightweight tropical wool with a bit of stretch purchased at Paron’s Annex on my recent trip to the Garment District. I picked this fabric for trouses, but was able to make this skirt with the fabric as Paron’s generously gave me at least an extra yard – perhaps more – gratis becaues it was the end of the bolt.

Burda Style Tropical Wool Pencil Skirt With Pleats Bottom View

Burda Style Tropical Wool Pencil Skirt With Pleats Bottom View

I’m proud of the finishing I did on this garment: following instructions in Marcy Titlton’s Easy Guide to Sewing Skirts, I added a French vent in place of the slit (which I’ve read don’t hold up well).

Burda Style Tropical Wool Pencil Skirt With Pleats 002

Burda Style Tropical Wool Pencil Skirt With Pleats 002

After basting the lining to the skirt wrong sides together, but before attaching the waistband, I flipped the skirt inside out and used the zipper foot to attach the lining to the seam allowance around the invisible zipper.

Burda Style Tropical Wool Pencil Skirt With Pleats 003

Burda Style Tropical Wool Pencil Skirt With Pleats 003

I stitched-in-the-ditch to attach the waistband, and for the first time ever uniformly caught the waistband on the inside.

Burda Style Tropical Wool Pencil Skirt With Pleats 004

Burda Style Tropical Wool Pencil Skirt With Pleats 004

I’m officially a Burda devotee: this skirt solved a long-standing issue I’ve had with the Big 4 patterns: skirt dumpy butt (such an elegant description, no?). Have you experienced this? I feel that the backs of the Big 4 skirt patterns are shaped too wide, and don’t curve in to hug a woman’s shape. But this Burda skirt cuts in under the bum and mimics RTW skirts in a way that the Big 4 don’t. Burda, j’taime. Thank you to you readers who suggested that I move on to Burda. I’m so glad that I did. (asewnwardrobe)