Burda #119 Fixing Some Problems

My Burda jacket is nearly done, although yesterday I noticed some problems that need to be fixed. When I first saw this pattern I could not really understand by they rated it thee dots Burda’s highest difficulty level. Well now I know why. 90% of the jacket is like any other jacket, but fitting the epaulettes onto the collar is harder than it looks. First there is the construction challenge and Burda’s usual cryptic instructions are no help. Basically, what needs to happen is the sleeve side raw edge of the epaulette is attached to the shoulder raw edge prior to setting in the sleeve. The epaulette also should be thread traced with the shoulder seam (this is indicated on the pattern piece) because it sits slightly forward to the front of the jacket. Here is the order of construction:

  • Baste the raw edge of the outer epaulette to the raw edge at the top of the shoulder. Align the thread tracing on the epaulette perfectly with the shoulder seam.
  • Attached the collar by sewing the outer collar seam only. Wrap the epaulette over the top of the collar and baste it to the inside raw edge of the inside collar piece.
  1. Install the lining
  2. Install the sleeves
  3. Sew the inner collar piece down. And here is the finished collar with the lining attached; however, there are two problems.

Problem #1: On the inside of the jacket, notice the right epaulette does not align with the facing as does the left epaulette. Its also canted towards the left when it should be 90 degrees vertical to center back on the collar like the left epaulette.

Burda-problems

Burda-problems

Problem #2: Notice the pucker on the back of the shoulder. This is the same epaulette that is too far from the facing and canted towards center back. The shoulder pad and sleeve head is installed but this area has not been pressed. The pucker you see near the armscye seam will not come out with pressing; its there because that edge of the epaulette is pulled too tight on the collar side.

So to fix this I will need to remove the inner collar stitching and re-set the epaulette. The inside collar seam is fell stitched by hand so ripping it out won’t be too bad.