My Burda jacket is nearly done, although yesterday I noticed some problems that need to be fixed. When I first saw this pattern I could not really understand by they rated it “thee dots” Burda’s highest difficulty level. Well now I know why. 90% of the jacket is like any other jacket, but fitting the epaulettes onto the collar is harder than it looks. First there is the construction challenge and Burda’s usual cryptic instructions are no help. Basically, what needs to happen is the sleeve side raw edge of the epaulette is attached to the shoulder raw edge prior to setting in the sleeve. The epaulette also should be thread traced with the shoulder seam (this is indicated on the pattern piece) because it sits slightly forward to the front of the jacket. Here is the order of construction:
- Baste the raw edge of the outer epaulette to the raw edge at the top of the shoulder. Align the thread tracing on the epaulette perfectly with the shoulder seam.
- Attached the collar by sewing the outer collar seam only. Wrap the epaulette over the top of the collar and baste it to the inside raw edge of the inside collar piece. It will look like this:
Click for a Closer View
- Install the lining
- Install the sleeves
- Sew the inner collar piece down. And here is the finished collar with the lining attached; however, there are two problems.
Click for a Closer View
Problem #1: On the inside of the jacket, notice the right epaulette does not align with the facing as does the left epaulette. Its also canted towards the left when it should be 90 degrees vertical to center back on the collar like the left epaulette.
Click for a Closer View
Problem #2: Notice the pucker on the back of the shoulder. This is the same epaulette that is too far from the facing and canted towards center back. The shoulder pad and sleeve head is installed but this area has not been pressed. The pucker you see near the armscye seam will not come out with pressing; its there because that edge of the epaulette is pulled too tight on the collar side.
So to fix this I will need to remove the inner collar stitching and re-set the epaulette. The inside collar seam is fell stitched by hand so ripping it out won’t be too bad.
So if the epaulette is 90 degrees to the inside collar seam, and aligns with the facing edge, does it work perfectly? Inquiring minds want to know – this pattern is the reason why I purchased this issue, but I haven’t tackled it yet.
Good point Kay – the other sleeve is still not set in yet, so really I’m just assuming the badly set epaulette is the source of the problem. I’ll install the other sleeve so I can compare both sides before I try to correct the collar issues .
I had to look back to find the photo of the jacket and it certainly is more complicated than at first glance. But, it will be worth it. The lines and cut of this jacket are very chic and stylish. I love the jacket but I never even look at jackets with high collars. I have way too short a neck to look good in this!
My issue is on it’s way – I’m so glad you’re making this first so I can pick your brain when I make mine!
Great point. I thought this pattern looked too easy. I muslined it but not for completion- just for fit and didn’t attach the collar. So, you will move the epaulette farther forward? Did I follow that properly? Do it attach at the same region on the inner facing of the collar? Thanks for doing this first!
Hi Jennifer – I think the epaulette is in the right spot on the front shoulder, it doesn’t need to be moved down on the bodice, it really just needs to be better aligned to the inside collar piece. Right now its racked, like a door that fits at the top of a door frame but sticks at the bottom.
I see how that could be tricky! If I decide to do this one, I’ll definately be refering back to this post. Thanks for sharing with us how this is coming together.
Have you made progress on the jacket? I’d love to see how you finished it up. Thanks for the help on clarifying the epaulettes.