CoudreMODE » Humor

RTW Dress Rx

coudremode — Sat, 23 Apr 2011 18:20:22 +0000

This Kenar dress is a few years old and I wear it quite a bit, its the type of dress than can be dressed up or down with different belts, boots, shoes etc. Hot Patterns Urbanista Coat Dress is very similar. One thing that has always annoyed me though is the belt that came with it can’t be tied in a classic trench coat square knot. The buckle doesn’t have a prong either so it doesn’t really stay snug when I wear it like a regular belt. So I decided to take the belt apart and use some lining fabric as a new backing. Here are the two pieces taken apart. The two pieces were stitched together a center back and the new strip was more than long enough for a new belt. One end of the strip was resquared and the other was re-trued into a point and a new lining attached.

Pattern Anthropology

coudremode — Sun, 12 Dec 2010 18:17:03 +0000

This weekend I’ve been cataloging patterns as there is a good amount of work to do to get them ready for Etsy. I have a big spreadsheet going that will have all the pattern data: brand, year, decade, style, size, bust-waist-hip and condition. Quite a few are still in their factory folds and the ones that have been cut need to be looked at make sure all of the pieces are there. Then the envelope needs to be scanned front and back. I have a lot of great stuff but the ones that will be the least likely to sell are styles from the 80′s of course. A few of my sewing BFF’s have already seen this in email but it really needs to be shared with the world. Would you believe the Simplicity masterpiece on the left even in a size 6 (30.5 bust -23 waist -32.5 hip) requires 3 yards of 45 inch fabric. No way? Way. Its still in the factory folds too, which I guess is not too surprising. Gigi said it looks like something Joan Cusack would wear in Working Girl. Another fun thing is looking into the patterns from companies like Marion Martin that appeared in advertisements in local and national papers like Grit (a rural newspaper) and Parade (yes the magazine that comes with the Sunday paper.) These patterns don’t have a pictorial envelope like the Big 4, they were mailed in plain white envelopes that have the fashion illustration on the instructions. Two of them that I opened today are so pristine that I found inserts advertising other patterns; these direct marketing inserts are called “bounce backs” and are the same thing as the catalogs and extra junk you get in the box when you order from on-line retailers. Here is what they look like:

“First Place Pattern Winners”

Based on some of the styles I think this comes from the early 1980′s. The fashion schizophrenia on the front is one thing (notice everything from pinafores to jumpsuits), but the crafts on the reverse side are something else entirely. A quilt of US Presidents? Why on earth would anyone put Richard Nixon on a quilt? How about a antimacassar that looks like a southern bell doll with a crocheted skirt? Or a dish towel embroidered with a bowel of pineapples that have human faces? Don’t for get the toys, such as a soft doll version of Betty Boop a character from the 30′s that by the 80′s no child would have any connection with.

“Designer Patterns”

This must be the high end stuff because there are no kitschy crafts on the reverse. I think this is the 80′s as well but a few years later, as we see some ginormous shoulder pads and that 80′s wedge dress that everyone wore in that decade (c’mon admit it I know you wore one and I did too). On the front side the designer names are Giorgio Sant’Angelo for Marjer, Frank Egitto, Eleanor Brenner, Lopez, Estevez, Vera Maxwell, Lavino Verna and Umba for Parnes-Feinstein. Style -wise we have the sublime (top view, the dress lower right corner) to the ridiculous (the kimono sleeve cardigan with the NFL-size raglan shoulder pads, bottom row 2nd from the left. ) The reverse side has the “Designer Collection” e.g. Frank Masandrea, Mitchel Rodell, Rona, Jayne Jay, Ayako, Bert Geiger, Fredlee plus Vera Maxwell and Eleanor Brenner again. Here I’m guessing the timeframe is a season or two after after Karl Lagerfeld took over Chanel because we see a Rona design top row called the “forever suit” . The best looks here are the suit on the far let with the shoulder drape, the sporty jacket on the top right and the cape and slim coat lower right.

Also – everyday on Facebook I’ve been featuring a pattern that I’ll have in my Etsy shop. If you want to see them leave a comment here on CoudreMODE and I’ll send you a friends request on FB. If you see a pattern on my FB status updates that you like I’ll reserve it for you when my shop opens.

Well…..back to my spreadsheet!

Edie Scissorhands

coudremode — Sun, 20 Jun 2010 13:29:11 +0000

Simplcity Patterns Magazine 1972

Take Me to Marrakesh

coudremode — Tue, 20 Apr 2010 11:02:32 +0000

Click!

True confession: I never made a pair of fly front pants until now; not really sure why that is. So I rate myself intermediate for pants sewing. I’m also not exactly cutting edge with pattern choice here since there are many terrific examples of HP Marrakesh Pants out there; Gigi, Debbie, Sue, Michelle and Barbara have made up this pattern and each example looks fantastic.

Given that my pants sewing skills are merely average, this first pair will be gardening pants . But these are not a wearable muslin because I still did two regular muslins to get the fit right; one straight out of the envelope and the second with a front thigh adjustment using Els’ method (which is definitive BTW.) Trudy’s crotch curve does everything people say it does. The front thigh adjustment was the only change I made to size 12. For the zipper Sandra Betzina’s method seems to be the easiest one out there, although I find it a little peculiar that she doesn’t include a fly shield, but that’s easy to incorporate, basically you just add it towards the end. When I do my next pair I’ll show some photos.

There are a few detail changes:

The ties are twill with a line of floss topsititched down the middle. I was in Fashion Mecca with my daughter (e.g. Forever 21) and saw a pair of similar pants with this detail on petersham ribbon. It looked great and as soon as I get my hands on some petersham I’ll use it this way.
Added two exterior patch pockets that I took from McCall’s 5590. These are work pants so that detail is unique to just this pair because it’s not exactly flattering. Regular inset pockets are not very useful for gardening and the loops are for tools like pruners.
Like Gigi, I used a pants hook and eye instead of a button.
Next pair may have a grommet opening for the ties insteads of buttonholes.
Stabilized the crotch curve as Gigi recommends in her post above.

Goofy chcken button

The fabric is Solarweave from Rockywoods; a SPF 50+ nylon supplex. The last time I used this fabric I made a shirt and that project had loops and no buttonholes. This fabric hates buttonholes. Even when it’s interfaced. I had to add a piece of machine embroidery stabilizer under the fabric. Solarweave is lightweight but the yarns are very hard and so make sure you use a fresh needle. It also frays and all seams need to be inside a lining or clean finished. This is a noisy fabric too, it makes a swishing sound and I’ll never where these anywhere except my own backyard or for a quick trip to Lowes. Next time I’ll make the waistband a little taller, maybe to 1 ½ inches tall.

This is now my go-to casual pant and I’ll be making up several for summer.

Fashion, She is a Harsh Mistress

coudremode — Sun, 07 Mar 2010 00:13:15 +0000

Fashion Tribes – Morning Coffee Shop

coudremode — Sat, 30 Jan 2010 21:39:01 +0000

I like to stop for coffee on the way in to work, and after almost 2 years at my current job the morning coffee fashion tribes at my local establishment are well defined…

Work Out Babe – This is a pumped up woman in Uggs and a flashy track suit, either Juicy Couture (high end) or Pink (low end). Her sweat pants have a provocative noun or adverb printed on the butt; she wears makeup and hoop earrings to the gym. She drives an Escalade or a Hummer2 and leaves it running at the curb. Takes forever to order because she has to consult with the person at the register about every item on the menu and its caloric content.

Moscow Mobster – Instead of a suit this guy wears a lavishly fringed black leather cowboy jacket with big raglan shoulder pads. His jeans have creases pressed into them and he also sports black cowboy boots and a belt with a huge silver buckle. He’s a bad dude who looks like Pee Wee Herman. Has a cell phone glued to his ear and rapidly scolds people in Russian, switching between two conversations. He occasionally breaks into English and proceeds to browbeat some unfortunate soul for not getting something across a border. Might be on the OFAC list. Drives a used late model Lexus or baby Mercedes that he bought with cash.

Salary Man - He is feeling the pressure and has a 3 hour commute from another state. Wears a (Scott) brown barn jacket and drives a Toyota Tundra vanity truck. Probably sleeps with his Bluetooth device attached to his head. Like Moscow Mobster he carries on two conversations at once, using his best sotto voce to make sure everyone in the vicinity knows how busy he is. Cannot stand waiting for even 30 seconds and if he is behind you in line you can almost feel his breath on your neck. Conveniently parks in the handicapped spot because he keeps his mother’s hang tag in the truck.

Marshalls Matron – Often does not make an appearance until after 9:00am, stopping by to fortify herself for a morning of heavy shopping. Wears a quilted coat and carries a metallic Kathy Van Zeeland bag that makes your eyes hurt. Is in her late 60′s but mysteriously has no grey hair. Never moves to the side after she gets her change and always counts it before she puts away her wallet.

Life is Good – This gent took an early retirement 25+ years ago. Meets his buddies every morning for coffee, politics, sports and investing tips. Drives a Detroit sedan, either an old Caddie or a Buick. Wears a baseball cap, an old Timberland jacket and Merrells. Has a winter home in Ft. Myers and a rock solid pension. Methodically plants himself in front of the coffee station, fills his cup, adds sugar one packet at a time, STIRS IT and takes a sip all the while holding up 20 commuters who just want to get to work.

Mobile Office – this is guy who uses the free Wi-Fi to run his business. Drives a sporty Volvo with a Thule rack. He nurses one cup of coffee and settles himself into a four person booth for a productive three hour session of email and phone calls. Jeans, a Patagonia fleece jacket and iEverything. Ignores all larger parties looking for tables, especially moms with small children and fragile seniors.

Fill ‘er up!

Pure Evil

coudremode — Mon, 04 Jan 2010 01:17:57 +0000

I should go over to Jo-Ann’s tomorrow to see if McCall’s actually had the stones to print this onto pattern tissue.

Resistance Was Futile – Hot Patterns Boudoir of Bliss Collection

coudremode — Sat, 14 Nov 2009 14:47:49 +0000

There was no way I could resist the new Hot Patterns Boudoir of Bliss collection. Trudy has definitely tapped into a pent up demand for lingerie patterns, which are woefully underrepresented in home sewing. I go to the lingerie section of the Big 4 every season only to see the same 5 patterns that have been in the catalog for at least a generation. Hot Patterns really hit a home run with this collection!

And really – lingerie is great project for a newish sewer. No way? Way. When my mother taught sewing she always had her students make PJ’s for their first garment project because it was a great way to learn how to attach a collar and set in a sleeve. And if the result if less than perfect – well you can still wear them! Lingerie is simple to make, there are minimal facings and you can embellish to your hearts content.

I just bought these three:

Oh Yeah Baby-Doll Nightgown, Robe and Panties

Both of my daughters will clamor for this; and next summer when we’re in Orlando for a competition the short version of the nightie will be perfect as a pool cover-up as well. Plus, if you have ever wondered what the hell to do with that ruffler gathering dust in your sewing room – here you go. Set the ruffler to a box pleat setting and have at it! I think the robe would be very pretty in a blouse weight fabric with the ruffle cut on the bias and raw edged.

Bel-Air Lounging Pyjamas

This pattern deeply channels my love of Old Hollywood Glamour, and I can see this in just about all of Ann’s Gorgeous Fabrics silks. This is exactly the type of thing I would pack when we visit family so I look fabulous when I come down to breakfast. Like Ann I’ll make the top long sleeve as a robe and wear the bottoms with a knit camisole for sleeping. I’ll also take this to Orlando so I can knock ‘em dead during trips to the ice machine while everyone else lets it all hang out in grotty t-shirts and gym shorts.

Pyjamarama PJ’s and Robe

I really love the funky 70‘s collar and the hip level pockets. As some of you know we have chickens, so this would be a great in a fun print like this one. For a more sophisticated look Ann has a wonderful cotton woven that I love. This one may end up being made both for me and my daughters; in New England a girl needs summer as well winter lingerie and this is a good cross seasonal style. Abby loves this colorful flannel and the bottoms in flannel back satin would be uber comfy and warm!

M’am, Step Away From the Serger and No One Will Get Hurt

coudremode — Wed, 11 Nov 2009 01:04:07 +0000

What is it about the zeitgeist of the 70′s ? Was the entire decade was due to the failure of radical politics combined with cheap recreational drugs? If I hadn’t lived through it to prove it really happened I could totally see how a person could be come a 1970′s denier. Some of you have seen this in email, but – well – it’s a classic!

My Good Friend Karl Lagerfeld

coudremode — Thu, 18 Jun 2009 16:54:21 +0000

On Twitter anyway. I read that he tweets on a regular basis so naturally I had to see for myself, and sure enough, there are 36,193 people plus me following him. Like Mademoiselle, he shares her penchant for aphorisms. Here is a recent sampling of his tweets, which are by turns insightful, banal and bitchy:

“When I took over Chanel, nobody wanted it anymore. People said don’t touch it, it’s dead. I saw possibility for years to come.”
4/9/09 12:32 AM

“I only wear the latest thing. It’s my job”
3/28/09 6:59 PM

“My dream? Transparent fur. The hair on plastic and not leather. We’ve tried, but nobody has found it yet.”
2/18/09 10:34 PM

“On this day each year, I soak the previous year’s calendar in my mother’s favorite perfume and then set it ablaze. Here’s to a fresh start.”
1/1/08 3:13 PM

“Florals are for middle-aged women with weight problems.”
1/27/09 12:15 AM

Priceless, non? I’m pretty certain KL writes these gems himself; and from what I understand at this point in his life he owns nothing other than technology. His collection of iPods numbers in the hundreds and his living space is pretty much a bed (or perhaps a coffin), a bathroom and computers; he has divested himself of most other material things. This was not always the case, and if you read The Beautiful Fall you’ll know that he has bought, collected and sold vast collections of property and goods from every decorative era from the Rococo to Art Deco and Modernism.

And now that his arch rival Yves St. Laurent has passed Karl is certainly having the final say. Maybe he’ll live forever, for all we know he could be Undead already.