CoudreMODE » Hot Patterns

RTW Dress Rx

coudremode — Sat, 23 Apr 2011 18:20:22 +0000

This Kenar dress is a few years old and I wear it quite a bit, its the type of dress than can be dressed up or down with different belts, boots, shoes etc. Hot Patterns Urbanista Coat Dress is very similar. One thing that has always annoyed me though is the belt that came with it can’t be tied in a classic trench coat square knot. The buckle doesn’t have a prong either so it doesn’t really stay snug when I wear it like a regular belt. So I decided to take the belt apart and use some lining fabric as a new backing. Here are the two pieces taken apart. The two pieces were stitched together a center back and the new strip was more than long enough for a new belt. One end of the strip was resquared and the other was re-trued into a point and a new lining attached.

Take Me to Marrakesh

coudremode — Tue, 20 Apr 2010 11:02:32 +0000

Click!

True confession: I never made a pair of fly front pants until now; not really sure why that is. So I rate myself intermediate for pants sewing. I’m also not exactly cutting edge with pattern choice here since there are many terrific examples of HP Marrakesh Pants out there; Gigi, Debbie, Sue, Michelle and Barbara have made up this pattern and each example looks fantastic.

Given that my pants sewing skills are merely average, this first pair will be gardening pants . But these are not a wearable muslin because I still did two regular muslins to get the fit right; one straight out of the envelope and the second with a front thigh adjustment using Els’ method (which is definitive BTW.) Trudy’s crotch curve does everything people say it does. The front thigh adjustment was the only change I made to size 12. For the zipper Sandra Betzina’s method seems to be the easiest one out there, although I find it a little peculiar that she doesn’t include a fly shield, but that’s easy to incorporate, basically you just add it towards the end. When I do my next pair I’ll show some photos.

There are a few detail changes:

The ties are twill with a line of floss topsititched down the middle. I was in Fashion Mecca with my daughter (e.g. Forever 21) and saw a pair of similar pants with this detail on petersham ribbon. It looked great and as soon as I get my hands on some petersham I’ll use it this way.
Added two exterior patch pockets that I took from McCall’s 5590. These are work pants so that detail is unique to just this pair because it’s not exactly flattering. Regular inset pockets are not very useful for gardening and the loops are for tools like pruners.
Like Gigi, I used a pants hook and eye instead of a button.
Next pair may have a grommet opening for the ties insteads of buttonholes.
Stabilized the crotch curve as Gigi recommends in her post above.

Goofy chcken button

The fabric is Solarweave from Rockywoods; a SPF 50+ nylon supplex. The last time I used this fabric I made a shirt and that project had loops and no buttonholes. This fabric hates buttonholes. Even when it’s interfaced. I had to add a piece of machine embroidery stabilizer under the fabric. Solarweave is lightweight but the yarns are very hard and so make sure you use a fresh needle. It also frays and all seams need to be inside a lining or clean finished. This is a noisy fabric too, it makes a swishing sound and I’ll never where these anywhere except my own backyard or for a quick trip to Lowes. Next time I’ll make the waistband a little taller, maybe to 1 ½ inches tall.

This is now my go-to casual pant and I’ll be making up several for summer.

Resistance Was Futile – Hot Patterns Boudoir of Bliss Collection

coudremode — Sat, 14 Nov 2009 14:47:49 +0000

There was no way I could resist the new Hot Patterns Boudoir of Bliss collection. Trudy has definitely tapped into a pent up demand for lingerie patterns, which are woefully underrepresented in home sewing. I go to the lingerie section of the Big 4 every season only to see the same 5 patterns that have been in the catalog for at least a generation. Hot Patterns really hit a home run with this collection!

And really – lingerie is great project for a newish sewer. No way? Way. When my mother taught sewing she always had her students make PJ’s for their first garment project because it was a great way to learn how to attach a collar and set in a sleeve. And if the result if less than perfect – well you can still wear them! Lingerie is simple to make, there are minimal facings and you can embellish to your hearts content.

I just bought these three:

Oh Yeah Baby-Doll Nightgown, Robe and Panties

Both of my daughters will clamor for this; and next summer when we’re in Orlando for a competition the short version of the nightie will be perfect as a pool cover-up as well. Plus, if you have ever wondered what the hell to do with that ruffler gathering dust in your sewing room – here you go. Set the ruffler to a box pleat setting and have at it! I think the robe would be very pretty in a blouse weight fabric with the ruffle cut on the bias and raw edged.

Bel-Air Lounging Pyjamas

This pattern deeply channels my love of Old Hollywood Glamour, and I can see this in just about all of Ann’s Gorgeous Fabrics silks. This is exactly the type of thing I would pack when we visit family so I look fabulous when I come down to breakfast. Like Ann I’ll make the top long sleeve as a robe and wear the bottoms with a knit camisole for sleeping. I’ll also take this to Orlando so I can knock ‘em dead during trips to the ice machine while everyone else lets it all hang out in grotty t-shirts and gym shorts.

Pyjamarama PJ’s and Robe

I really love the funky 70‘s collar and the hip level pockets. As some of you know we have chickens, so this would be a great in a fun print like this one. For a more sophisticated look Ann has a wonderful cotton woven that I love. This one may end up being made both for me and my daughters; in New England a girl needs summer as well winter lingerie and this is a good cross seasonal style. Abby loves this colorful flannel and the bottoms in flannel back satin would be uber comfy and warm!