CoudreMODE » Patterns

One Down – 56 To Go

coudremode — Sat, 22 Jan 2011 01:01:38 +0000

The past month has been a blur of holidays, work, snow, pattern uploading, school, dance, snow, work, school, seed catalogs, snow and more snow. I’m not one of those people who bitch about winter though and this lovely blanket of white is good news for spring and summer gardening. I also have my Etsy shop CoudreMODE Vintage Patterns up and running and I’m adding patterns about once a week. Today I finished part of Abby’s costume for her solo, she’s doing a contemporary routine to a White Stripes tune and her choreographer wanted something rocker but happy. New Look 6648 had the perfect style; this is a very simple pattern with a nice gathered waist. The kimono sleeves are done on a straight stitch machine not a serger, a trick I learned from Gigi and this really gives the sleeve a nice drape. There are no changes from the pattern other than folding the neckline down with a coverstitch. No armsyce seam meant it was perfect for this big Gerbera daisy print from Gorgeous Fabrics. This style really perfect for a poly knits with a large scale patterns. The flower centers have a bit of gold foil color and I added Swarovski 12ss hot-fix crystals in Light Topaz for understated bling. Those came from Crystal Rhinestone Boutique on Ebay (great prices and every size and color.) The rest of her costume? A pair of dark wash RTW jeggings. The other 56 costumes are a silver sequin mini dress under a sheer motorcyle jacket in dark blue organza and 55 costumes for a Bollywood tap routine. Tomorrow I start the production sheets for those!

Pattern Zero

coudremode — Sun, 05 Dec 2010 03:17:48 +0000

My mother is here for the weekend, Abby and Em’s 14th birthday was December 2. She brought with her 100+ patterns from her stash, her best friend’s stash and my grandmother’s. The time span is the 30′s to the 80′s and this is in addition to the patterns she gave me in 2008. (two blog posts here and here) So today we’ve begun to catalog the collection in preparation of setting up an Etsy shop next year to sell them. There is some great stuff here in addition to the Big 4: Spadea, Advance, Marian Martin and LeRoy a British pattern company I’ve never seen till now. I really need to keep the good ones for myself sell them without regret. Two have special meaning and I can’t part with them; McCall’s 9685 was my very first sewing project. The copyright is 1969; I was 11 years old and I liked it because of the little white frog at the neckline – even then I loved embellishment! The pattern is pretty simple but I remember having a really hard time understanding how to attach the neckline facing because the “V” shaped opening totally confused me. The other pattern is my mother’s very first sewing project; she was about 14 and made the red dress on the right. She has a poignant story about my imperious grandmother, who could be a very harsh teacher, almost not letting her make it because she thought it was too difficult. But then years later she admitted to my mother that she realized if she had said “No” my mother would never want to learn to sew because she would be so hurt by the rejection. So she relented, Mom did a great job I’m sure and now I sew because she learned with this dress. There are many memories in these patterns, more than a few of them I remember picking out for holiday dresses or school clothes. But the time has come to let them go so theatother sewers can make their own memories. Below is a sneak peak of what I will be selling at CoudreMODE Vintage Patterns sometime after the New Year. There is a lot prep to do before I can open ip on Etsy, scanning the envelopes, spreadsheet the inventory, check for missing pattern pieces, buy pattern sleeves, etc…..but if you see something you like leave a comment and I’ll get in touch with you! Below is a gallery that is just a sample of what will be available on Etsy.

[Show as slideshow]

1973 Vintage Simplicity 6146

coudremode — Mon, 11 Oct 2010 09:31:43 +0000

Click!

: Click!

Gigi and I share a love for 70’s fashion, for me I just love the exuberance, funkiness and humor of that decade. Dresses and coats are my favorite 70’s looks and I could not resist this style from Pattern Junkie’s Etsy store. The plan is for View 2. There is a zipper down the front and a nice Riri in brown and antique brass would look good I think. I also love the caftan version, in the 70’s just about every dress pattern came in a mini plus maxi version. View 3 in a brocade or wool interlock would be pretty cool – it looks kind of Ralph Rucci to me.

Click!

One thing I like about vintage patterns is they are often already cut – hey Marfy gets a premium price for that – and I love the feeling of discovery when I first open the envelope I feel this connection to a sewer from long ago and I always wonder how her version came out and what fabric she used.There are always surprises too; this pattern has separate pattern pieces for sew-in interfacing and there are subtle human drafted details we really don’t see in modern computer drafted patterns: the elbow dart, the gentle curve of the raglan sleeves, a waist marking on the back bodice as well the front, the darts in the facings. The original sewer also cut very pattern piece out with pinking shears(?!) but cut the interfacings with regular scissors. Maybe she did this so she could tell them apart easily. I’ll be using some of Pam’s interfacing so I won’t need those pieces. The fashion fabric is a chocolate brown poly woven with a thin pink pinstripe; I think the raglan sleeves will show that off pretty well.

Click!

Might Be Worth It

coudremode — Wed, 16 Jun 2010 10:28:10 +0000

So what you you think? Is this style dated? It’s from 1994.

I still really like it. This has been in my stash for maybe 10 years. Back in the 90′s I would have made it from slinky, fortunately today’s knits have the same great drape without slinky’s weight and tendency to “grow”. About the only negative to this style is that it uses 4 yards(!) of 60 inch of fabric if you can believe it. I also may have some adjusting to do, I have a feeling I could have gone with even a 10 size-wise since its Vogue and their slopers are huge.. That’s the beauty of a muslin. Off to look for fabric on-line….

Butterick 4526 – Pool Wrap with Swimsuits

coudremode — Sat, 12 Jun 2010 15:34:00 +0000

This is the first Butterick pattern I’ve done in years, which is strange because when I was young Butterick was my favorite Big 4 line; they had really great fashion forward looks. If you don’t believe me just go onto any vintage pattern site and look at 60′s and 70′s Buttericks. But these days that line is just meh, so I was very surprised to find this beach wrap. Both DD’s need a pool wrap for Florida while we’re at Nationals; they are both too shy to walk through the lobby in just their swimsuits. 4526 also comes with two swimsuit patterns, the one piece is nice however the two piece looks like a sport s bra and Spanx.

This pattern could not be simpler. I think it took me longer to set up my serger and practice a 2 thread rolled hem then to actually make it:

There is just one seam at center back
There are two shaping side darts
Its single layer and the edges can finished with a decorative serger stitch

The fabric is a polyester chiffon from Jo-Ann’s and the edging is woolly nylon. This makes up so fast you can coordinate with all of your bathing suits! I also think this style in light terry cloth would make a great spa wrap, just square off the tie ends and replace them with overlapped velcro. It can also be worn as a skirt. This pattern has a 2005 copyright and I haven’t seen anything like this on any other Big 4 site so if you like it grab it before they take it out of production.

Resistance Was Futile – Hot Patterns Boudoir of Bliss Collection

coudremode — Sat, 14 Nov 2009 14:47:49 +0000

There was no way I could resist the new Hot Patterns Boudoir of Bliss collection. Trudy has definitely tapped into a pent up demand for lingerie patterns, which are woefully underrepresented in home sewing. I go to the lingerie section of the Big 4 every season only to see the same 5 patterns that have been in the catalog for at least a generation. Hot Patterns really hit a home run with this collection!

And really – lingerie is great project for a newish sewer. No way? Way. When my mother taught sewing she always had her students make PJ’s for their first garment project because it was a great way to learn how to attach a collar and set in a sleeve. And if the result if less than perfect – well you can still wear them! Lingerie is simple to make, there are minimal facings and you can embellish to your hearts content.

I just bought these three:

Oh Yeah Baby-Doll Nightgown, Robe and Panties

Both of my daughters will clamor for this; and next summer when we’re in Orlando for a competition the short version of the nightie will be perfect as a pool cover-up as well. Plus, if you have ever wondered what the hell to do with that ruffler gathering dust in your sewing room – here you go. Set the ruffler to a box pleat setting and have at it! I think the robe would be very pretty in a blouse weight fabric with the ruffle cut on the bias and raw edged.

Bel-Air Lounging Pyjamas

This pattern deeply channels my love of Old Hollywood Glamour, and I can see this in just about all of Ann’s Gorgeous Fabrics silks. This is exactly the type of thing I would pack when we visit family so I look fabulous when I come down to breakfast. Like Ann I’ll make the top long sleeve as a robe and wear the bottoms with a knit camisole for sleeping. I’ll also take this to Orlando so I can knock ‘em dead during trips to the ice machine while everyone else lets it all hang out in grotty t-shirts and gym shorts.

Pyjamarama PJ’s and Robe

I really love the funky 70‘s collar and the hip level pockets. As some of you know we have chickens, so this would be a great in a fun print like this one. For a more sophisticated look Ann has a wonderful cotton woven that I love. This one may end up being made both for me and my daughters; in New England a girl needs summer as well winter lingerie and this is a good cross seasonal style. Abby loves this colorful flannel and the bottoms in flannel back satin would be uber comfy and warm!

Thank U Lindsay!

coudremode — Thu, 30 Jul 2009 18:36:06 +0000

When Lindsay blogged about these faux-tortoise giant snaps I fell in love! Then I noticed in the Latest 8/2009 Burda Style that they would be really great on jacket #119. So I called Pacific Trimming, emailed them the photo and they did an order. Its been about two years since I’ve been there; there is a lot of great stuff on their web site, but it’s just a fraction of what’s in the store. I bought the size 32 Ligne in the upper left hand corner (a tad samller than 1 inch – here is a link to button sizes) and as you can see in the photo they come in a few sizes. Lindsay told me in an email that they also have black, red and ivory snaps – the black ones are at the bottom of the photo. The fabric will be a charcoal grey Italian wool. For a lining I have some great silk charmeuse in my stash. The snaps arrived today and I just traced off and cut out the pattern! This is a simple style and it should not take much time to make up.

Two Burda’s

coudremode — Sun, 28 Jun 2009 12:00:54 +0000

For some reason I’ve made plenty of Burda World of Fashion patterns over the years, but I have never made up one of their envelope patterns. Another thing I never realized until yesterday is that Jo-Ann’s discounts Burda 40% every day just like the Big 4. Have I been living in some alternate sewing universe? These caught my eye yesterday while I was picking up the zipper for Abby’s Ralph Rucci gown which is about 90% done – yeah!

Click for a Closer View

Both of the patterns are up next for me when we get back from ADA Nationals:

7658 reminds me of a simpler version of Vogue 1048, Ralph Rucci’s shirtwaist dress from last summer. I think both envelope photos of this dress look great, a crisp fabric works as well as a crinkled one. This is a great work dress, not too revealing but still good for hot weather. I’ll lower the hem to just below the knee and bring the buttons all the way down to the hem (why do they always end at crotch height?) This pattern has a more conventionally drafted bodice that lends itself to an FBA, and I recall a few people noting that making an FBA alteration to the Rucci dress was challenging.

Click for a Closer View

Summer 2009 is the season of the Maxi Dress and I’ve been keen to find a pattern I like because I think this will be a one season trend. 7699 is just what I want, it’s a little more sporty than most and doesn’t have the spaghetti straps and empire waist of what I’ve seen in RTW; that’s a look that I can’t pull off. The front gather looks familiar; this detail has appeared pretty frequently this year on knit tops. We have an August family reunion in Mystic, Connecticut and this dress will be perfect; I’ll be able to make my maxi dress statement while this trend is still on the fashion radar.

Not sure what fabrics I’ll use; although I do have a nice pique in the stash that may work for 7658 and of course Ann has the best knits so lots of choices there!

McCall’s 5525 – Technical Difficulties

coudremode — Sat, 25 Apr 2009 18:12:59 +0000

I sewed over a pin and the needle broke on my Bernina; one piece fell into the bobbin case and now I have major stitching problems. Le sigh. So the machine is on its way to Neverett’s in Nashua NH and I’ll just have to get it back before I can finish my coat. But here is how it looks so far; the lining is partially in, the black piping really looks good and the fit is perfect. However, I can’t work on it for at least a week and it’s 72 degrees outside and the weather is supposed to be summer-like next week anyway!

McCall’s 5525 – Weeny Pockets & Trim Decisions

coudremode — Sun, 12 Apr 2009 22:14:15 +0000

Today I put together a quick muslin for my trench coat; this is a 14 and the back and front bodice pieces were each narrowed 1/2 inch. McCall’s sloper seems to have the same wide back and shoulder as Vogue so I always need to take them in. There is one thing that mystifies me about the Big 4; why are the pocket bags always so small? My hands are medium size, and as you can see, with a seam allowance these pockets are just about useless. I’ll have to redraft this for sure! Another decision is trim; this is a busy print so instead of top stitching where you see it on the technical drawing I’ll use black piping. The neckline tab will be replaced with the above black leather strap and black chrome buckle ( from Pacific Trimming.)

P.S. The TNT diversion dress is almost done, but I won’ t finish it up until I decide what do about the buttons. I may order custom covered buttons from Pat Mahoney and this trench needs a cool belt buckle too; Pat has a great selection of those as well.