CoudreMODE » Vintage Sewing

Pattern Anthropology

coudremode — Sun, 12 Dec 2010 18:17:03 +0000

This weekend I’ve been cataloging patterns as there is a good amount of work to do to get them ready for Etsy. I have a big spreadsheet going that will have all the pattern data: brand, year, decade, style, size, bust-waist-hip and condition. Quite a few are still in their factory folds and the ones that have been cut need to be looked at make sure all of the pieces are there. Then the envelope needs to be scanned front and back. I have a lot of great stuff but the ones that will be the least likely to sell are styles from the 80′s of course. A few of my sewing BFF’s have already seen this in email but it really needs to be shared with the world. Would you believe the Simplicity masterpiece on the left even in a size 6 (30.5 bust -23 waist -32.5 hip) requires 3 yards of 45 inch fabric. No way? Way. Its still in the factory folds too, which I guess is not too surprising. Gigi said it looks like something Joan Cusack would wear in Working Girl. Another fun thing is looking into the patterns from companies like Marion Martin that appeared in advertisements in local and national papers like Grit (a rural newspaper) and Parade (yes the magazine that comes with the Sunday paper.) These patterns don’t have a pictorial envelope like the Big 4, they were mailed in plain white envelopes that have the fashion illustration on the instructions. Two of them that I opened today are so pristine that I found inserts advertising other patterns; these direct marketing inserts are called “bounce backs” and are the same thing as the catalogs and extra junk you get in the box when you order from on-line retailers. Here is what they look like:

“First Place Pattern Winners”

Based on some of the styles I think this comes from the early 1980′s. The fashion schizophrenia on the front is one thing (notice everything from pinafores to jumpsuits), but the crafts on the reverse side are something else entirely. A quilt of US Presidents? Why on earth would anyone put Richard Nixon on a quilt? How about a antimacassar that looks like a southern bell doll with a crocheted skirt? Or a dish towel embroidered with a bowel of pineapples that have human faces? Don’t for get the toys, such as a soft doll version of Betty Boop a character from the 30′s that by the 80′s no child would have any connection with.

“Designer Patterns”

This must be the high end stuff because there are no kitschy crafts on the reverse. I think this is the 80′s as well but a few years later, as we see some ginormous shoulder pads and that 80′s wedge dress that everyone wore in that decade (c’mon admit it I know you wore one and I did too). On the front side the designer names are Giorgio Sant’Angelo for Marjer, Frank Egitto, Eleanor Brenner, Lopez, Estevez, Vera Maxwell, Lavino Verna and Umba for Parnes-Feinstein. Style -wise we have the sublime (top view, the dress lower right corner) to the ridiculous (the kimono sleeve cardigan with the NFL-size raglan shoulder pads, bottom row 2nd from the left. ) The reverse side has the “Designer Collection” e.g. Frank Masandrea, Mitchel Rodell, Rona, Jayne Jay, Ayako, Bert Geiger, Fredlee plus Vera Maxwell and Eleanor Brenner again. Here I’m guessing the timeframe is a season or two after after Karl Lagerfeld took over Chanel because we see a Rona design top row called the “forever suit” . The best looks here are the suit on the far let with the shoulder drape, the sporty jacket on the top right and the cape and slim coat lower right.

Also – everyday on Facebook I’ve been featuring a pattern that I’ll have in my Etsy shop. If you want to see them leave a comment here on CoudreMODE and I’ll send you a friends request on FB. If you see a pattern on my FB status updates that you like I’ll reserve it for you when my shop opens.

Well…..back to my spreadsheet!

Pattern Zero

coudremode — Sun, 05 Dec 2010 03:17:48 +0000

My mother is here for the weekend, Abby and Em’s 14th birthday was December 2. She brought with her 100+ patterns from her stash, her best friend’s stash and my grandmother’s. The time span is the 30′s to the 80′s and this is in addition to the patterns she gave me in 2008. (two blog posts here and here) So today we’ve begun to catalog the collection in preparation of setting up an Etsy shop next year to sell them. There is some great stuff here in addition to the Big 4: Spadea, Advance, Marian Martin and LeRoy a British pattern company I’ve never seen till now. I really need to keep the good ones for myself sell them without regret. Two have special meaning and I can’t part with them; McCall’s 9685 was my very first sewing project. The copyright is 1969; I was 11 years old and I liked it because of the little white frog at the neckline – even then I loved embellishment! The pattern is pretty simple but I remember having a really hard time understanding how to attach the neckline facing because the “V” shaped opening totally confused me. The other pattern is my mother’s very first sewing project; she was about 14 and made the red dress on the right. She has a poignant story about my imperious grandmother, who could be a very harsh teacher, almost not letting her make it because she thought it was too difficult. But then years later she admitted to my mother that she realized if she had said “No” my mother would never want to learn to sew because she would be so hurt by the rejection. So she relented, Mom did a great job I’m sure and now I sew because she learned with this dress. There are many memories in these patterns, more than a few of them I remember picking out for holiday dresses or school clothes. But the time has come to let them go so theatother sewers can make their own memories. Below is a sneak peak of what I will be selling at CoudreMODE Vintage Patterns sometime after the New Year. There is a lot prep to do before I can open ip on Etsy, scanning the envelopes, spreadsheet the inventory, check for missing pattern pieces, buy pattern sleeves, etc…..but if you see something you like leave a comment and I’ll get in touch with you! Below is a gallery that is just a sample of what will be available on Etsy.

[Show as slideshow]

1973 Vintage Simplicity 6146

coudremode — Mon, 11 Oct 2010 09:31:43 +0000

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Gigi and I share a love for 70’s fashion, for me I just love the exuberance, funkiness and humor of that decade. Dresses and coats are my favorite 70’s looks and I could not resist this style from Pattern Junkie’s Etsy store. The plan is for View 2. There is a zipper down the front and a nice Riri in brown and antique brass would look good I think. I also love the caftan version, in the 70’s just about every dress pattern came in a mini plus maxi version. View 3 in a brocade or wool interlock would be pretty cool – it looks kind of Ralph Rucci to me.

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One thing I like about vintage patterns is they are often already cut – hey Marfy gets a premium price for that – and I love the feeling of discovery when I first open the envelope I feel this connection to a sewer from long ago and I always wonder how her version came out and what fabric she used.There are always surprises too; this pattern has separate pattern pieces for sew-in interfacing and there are subtle human drafted details we really don’t see in modern computer drafted patterns: the elbow dart, the gentle curve of the raglan sleeves, a waist marking on the back bodice as well the front, the darts in the facings. The original sewer also cut very pattern piece out with pinking shears(?!) but cut the interfacings with regular scissors. Maybe she did this so she could tell them apart easily. I’ll be using some of Pam’s interfacing so I won’t need those pieces. The fashion fabric is a chocolate brown poly woven with a thin pink pinstripe; I think the raglan sleeves will show that off pretty well.

Click!

Pretty Things

coudremode — Sun, 05 Sep 2010 22:51:41 +0000

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Lately I’ve been trolling vintage pattern web sites, mostly because it’s just so much fun and there is serious style out there that still looks good today. This weekend on Patterns From The Past I found Simplicity 6284 that I actually wore! (you need to scroll down the page to find it, this is not a robust web site) My mother made me the jacket and vest and I wore it for my senior class photo. The fabric may actually be silk taffeta; I did a burn test today and got that characteristic smell and soft black ash that silk makes. I think the collar fabric is a cotton or rayon matte shantung. Both fabrics are vintage and came from my grandmother’s stash, and the buttons are mother of pearl. Mom (who posts comments here as PVE) matched up the plaid pretty well I’d say so she gets a big hug fromm me! I <3 YOU MOM! The inside is not lined except for the sleeves, and she clean finished the seams with an overlock stitch. This is not a serged stitch however, this jacket made was more than a decade before before sergers were available to home sewers. At the time straight stitch machines did a approximation of a true overlock stitch. The facings are bound with black lace and the sleeves are lined with silver polyester satin. The rest of my outfit was a pair of RTW black satin jeans and black platform shoes with a 3 inch heel. I think the jeans had a rhinestone applique on the back too. It was a killer 70′s look lemme tell you!

So if you know a young sewer who loves that Steampunk look trust me this is the pattern for her.

My Anita Pallenberg Coat

coudremode — Wed, 16 Dec 2009 00:09:06 +0000

Click for a Closer View

Another coat I wore in high school; this is grey leather with rabbit trim and the closures are a row of five turnbuckles. This is a very Hot Patterns coat, don’t you think? The rabbit fur is in pretty good shape considering its about as low on the ladder of fur as one can get; there has been some shedding but not too much. This coat has not been stored professionally and amazingly the leather is still soft and supple with no defects or scars. No dry rot either. Two piece sleeves as well with a small dart at the elbow. The is a waist seam with two vertical bodice darts. It has a size 8 tag AND IT FITS ME . No designer label on this one either. Both Abby and Emma love this coat and fortunately it’s too heavy to wear to school or stuff into a ½ size middle school locker and since Mom can still get into it well, I just may need to wear out out a bit with boot cut jeans and a white turtleneck sweater. And black Ray-Ban Aivator shades.

And Gigi, you can borrow it any time!

Austin Power’s Yeah Baby Trenchcoat

coudremode — Sun, 13 Dec 2009 15:08:24 +0000

Click for a Closer View

Coats are something I kind of have an obsession with, at last count I had seven and evidently this is a trait that has been with me for quite a while. My mother came for a visit last week and brought some of the coats I wore in high school, and my daughters, who are getting into vintage, pounced on them! So I’ll share these gems with you over the next few days.

Abby snapped this up the minute she saw it and has been wearing it to school with skinny black jeans; this coat has a ton great detail. It needs a few buttons replaced but is mostly in good condition. The 70’s is my absolute favorite decade for coats; I just love the exuberance of design in that era. Other than knowing its US made I have no idea who the designer was; its red vinyl with a good quality rayon faille lining. The label is long gone but its US made because there is a ILGWU tag in a side seam.

Let’s look at the details:

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The collar totally rocks! I LOVE the size and the buttons and that the upper collar and the lapels are not attached. Love the way it hugs the neck and I think the reason is:

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There is no collar stand! I find this quite interesting and I suspect the center back seam on the under collar is there for support. Notice the two shaping seams in the middle of each shoulder seam.

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The front seams are also interesting, instead of a seam that runs to the hem it stops about 8 inches from the hem.

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The back view; notice the belt pulls the back skirt into a pleat. This is intentional and part of the design. The belt is set into a princess seam that runs from the armsyce. Notice the two piece sleeves.

Click for a Closer View

Forgive my wonky seam tracing! The left line is the side seam with the pocket welt, the right line is the princess seam and the belt attachment.

Click for a Closer View

And lastly, the HUGE pocket welts, which I think are so cool. Here you can clearly see them set into the side seam. If Abby didn’t love this coat as much as she does I’d pick it apart and draft a replica for myself!

Vintage Bonanza – Part 2

coudremode — Sat, 17 May 2008 11:53:37 +0000

These patterns bring us up to the 1970′s; my grandmother was born in 1903 and still sewed into the 1980′s but I think she didn’t bother with patterns after the 70′s. She was in her 80′s herself at that point and just stuck with a few tried and true styles. So here we have…

Parade – Mid 60′s

Patterns were sold via local newspapers well into the 70′s and this is an example. This reminds me of Simplicity’s recent 60′s reissue, but I think this Parade style is more flattering and most women could wear this. I love the neckline.

Marian Martin 9169 – Mid 60′s

A simple but attractive wrap dress. I like the two button closure and the one off-side pocket. I think Marian Martin patterns were also sold through newspapers.

Marian Martin 9166 – Late 60′s or early 70′s ?

I’m having a hard time dating this style; it may well be the same year as the above Marian Martin given the pattern numbers are so close. I’m kind of on the fence right now about this and I’m not sure I’ll keep it. I like the collar and big buttons down the front, but the seaming on the skirt – not so sure. Might be okay in a dark fabric though. One cool thing: this is a “half size”, the old way that patterns were sized for petites. By the late 80′s this sizing standard had been dropped entirely by pattern companies.

McCall’s 3818 – 1973

Its a Halston – what more can I say? This has all of the refined details of his sportswear; body skimming but still fitted at the shoulder, waist and hips, a very narrow waistband and a flat front on the pants. I should really scan the instructions and show you the technical drawing because the back of the shirt jacket has a lot of interest. It has a back yoke and jean jacket with princess seams from the armsyce to the hem. Lots of topstitching on the jacket and the pants. Recommended fabrics: wool, synthetic double knit (so 70′s), linen, garbardine, cotton broadcloth and (naturally) – Ultrasuede!

Vintage Bonanza – Part 1

coudremode — Sat, 26 Apr 2008 13:37:17 +0000

My mother came for a visit last week, and she brought two suitcases of patterns that belonged to my grandmother Della Vestcyk. What a treasure trove! Most of them will end up on Ebay, although I did keep a handful. So for the next few days I’ll share with you the ones I kept, and when my mother begins to list them on Ebay I’ll make an announcement here on Sewing Divas. All of them are in bust sizes 34-36-38.

The collection spans the 1930′s to the 70′s and in addition to the Big 4 there are several smaller pattern companies, some I’ve seen before like Marian Martin and Parade, and others I’ve never heard of, such as Modes Royale and The Book of Fashion.

Modes Royale No. 438 – 1947

This style was my mother’s high school graduation gown. Modes Royale appears to have been a semi-custom pattern company, and notice the price on the envelope is $2.00 – a huge sum of money for a pattern when most of them were only $.25 apiece. The envelope is really large, about the size of today’s Vogue Designer patterns. I doubt I’ll ever sew this one, but I had to have it because it was made for my mother, by my grandmother.

Simplicity 2617 – Early 1950′s

I really love both of these; the details are so different. The one on the left is just about my ideal summer dress, I think it would look great in seersucker or madras plaid, and the style on the right would look great in red or pumpkin wool crepe for the fall and winter.

The Book of Fashion No. 2817 - Early 1950′s

This jacket reminds me of Vogue 7908, a modern Claire Shaeffer pattern. The side hip buttons are very cool and the jacket and blouse version would also look great and very modern with wide leg pants.

Vogue 6995 – 1950

This one has a copyright date, which is missing from most of the collection. I love this so much I’m tempted to see if Vogue would be interested in adding it to the Vintage Vogue collection. This is one of those styles that is timeless and universally flattering to just about everyone. In addition to being a lovely summer dress, the bodice could also be made in white and the skirt in black for a faux skirt & blouse look. Add the jacket in the same fabric as the skirt and you have a very Chanel-like look from her 1953 comeback collection.

The Lost Acessory

coudremode — Mon, 31 Mar 2008 00:07:05 +0000

Hats.

Georgene’s post made me think of them, because I adore that cute little trilby on the right. When I was younger, I loved nothing more than playing with my grandmother’s collection of hats on a rainy afternoon, and every time I see a vintage pattern I long for the chance to wear one.

What happened to our relationship with hats?

My theory as to why woman no longer wear them boils down to this: we no longer wear hairstyles that accommodate a hat, that is, a style smooth at the back of the head with curls around the face. Bangs do not work with hats (ask me how I know this.) These days our hairstyle is our “head ornament” and I think our increasingly casual lives jsut don’t give us that many opportunities to wear them, and so we don’t know how to wear them anymore. These days when I see a woman in a hat she is just SO selfconscious and aware of what’s on her head. It reminds of me seeing my Episcopal dad in a Yarmulke at my cousin’s Bar Mitzvah.

So where can we wear hats these days? Well…

Church. Our African-American sisters in particular really know how to rock this and I salute them for keeping the flame burning, but for the most part hats at church are a thing of the past where I live.

The Kentucky Derby. Not an event I’m likely to attend in the near future.

Weddings. Well, many of them are evening events now, and hats are kind of a daytime thing if you ask me.

Meeting Queen Elizabeth or the Pope. Same as the Kentucky Derby.

Not a long list. Plus, a hat is meant to seen, and since most of us drive everywhere, where would we wear hats on a daily basis? The mall? Costco? I can’t envision it.

BUT

Great hats do exist….. like here….and here…and here. First Lady of France Carla Bruni needs to work on her hat wardrobe a bit; it’s hard to believe she looks more matronly than the Queen, who is twice her age and still wore a better hat. Carla should be channeling Jackie Kennedy.

Maybe when my daughters get married I’ll have a chance to wear one. Hopefully they will have day weddings.

Sigh

Separated at Birth

coudremode — Thu, 21 Feb 2008 13:58:45 +0000

Our good friend from Barcelona, Paco Peralta, sent me this photo of the Balenciaga dress that inspired my vintage cashmere coat.