I did mean to blog about the rest of the new Vogue patterns, and they seem to fall clearly into Fashion Tribes this time.
First the ridiculous…
Art is a Man’s Name
Art is meant for galleries and museums, as far as the “art” in ”art-to-wear” is concerned, only couture embodies true art in fashion. I really question the wearability of this stuff, and I’ll argue that most American women can’t wear designs like these, because truthfully, only skinny people can wear baggy clothes. Every single one of these patterns reminds of the typical Brookline-Cambridge art-to-wear enthusiast. She is a chunky baby boomer who is a tenured professor in Women’s Studies married to a tenured economics professor who hasn’t had a real world job since the first Bush administration. She favors lots of oversize funky jewelry. Hair is a brassy Pat Field red. Despite the outlandish clothes and accessories she always wears sensible low heeled shoes, Naturalizer or Easy Spirit.
Yes the white outfit on the left is Ralph Rucci, but it’s also a bit Star Trek. This might look good if you’re going to a party on a boat but this is so memorable it almost can’t be worn more than once. As for the Issey Miyake on the right; he is masterful in his couture, but he hasn’t done anything good for Vogue Patterns in quite some time. This thing looks like drapery.
Party like its 2005
I guess Vogue didn’t get this memo either that the Duro and all of its many iterations are passé. The dress on the right is DKNY and I’m beginning to believe this acronym now stands for “Donna Karan is Never a Yes”.
Miss Kitty’s Bordello
Why aren’t these in the lingerie section? Good luck wearing them if you’re over a B-cup, especially the one with the boob ruffle.
Step Away from the Caftan
Every time I see a Koos Van Den Akker pattern I have the same reaction: good luck finding fabrics that work. I grant you, his designs are interesting in an intellectual way, but it is SO difficult to coordinate fabrics like this when they are not custom manufactured for the design. Run-of-the- mill quilting cottons are not the same thing, this design needs authentic ethnic fabrics like true batiks, Japanese chirimen cottons or true mud cloth. And don’t make it from polar fleece or sweatshirt knit!
Let’s do the Time Warp
The two on the left look like housework and/or maternity clothes. The top on the right is 1/2 of a mid 1980′s fast food uniform. That’s all I have to say about these.
Now the Sublime
V8574 (left) is great for poolside or shopping in hot weather and v8570 (middle) is a great summery dress that looks good on women of any age as long as you’re lithe enough to wear it. V1107 (right) is the other Ralph Rucci, I love this pattern, and can’t wait to open up the envelope to find out why it requires almost 5 years of fabric! In my stash I have some dotted silk that is just perfect.
Every one of these designs is just fine without the bow. The bows add nothing. The bows are on the back for v1102 (left) and v8573 (right).
This is a beautiful dress; a very Yves St. Laurent or Laura Bennet design. For the full effect though this needs to be made from silk jersey and success hinges on finding a great closure for the front, fortunately M&J Trimming has lots of them and in fact the closure on the dress mostly likely came from M&J because they have one that is identical. The waist needs to be stabilized with an inner belt because a heavy rhinestone closure will distort silk jersey. The pattern envelope notes this and given Ann’s recent experience with Vogue we can only hope this crucial construction detail has not been omitted from the instructions.
This is very cute in the sleeveless version but kind of dowdy and “I Love Lucy” in the sleeved version. I think McCall’s 5801 is a better full skirt sleeved shirtwaist.
I have now words on how much I LOVED this post! The description on wearable art alone had me saying ‘amen’ like I was in the church choir!
I totally agree – what is Vogue thinking? as my mom would say, “oh wait, they weren’t thinking”
I am also interested in finding out why the Ralph Rucci dress takes 5 yards. And what secret couture techniques will be required. And, am I up for the challenge?
Fabulous post. I agree with you that the sublime are sublime and the McCalls is a better dress than the Vogue. I also like the Ralph Rucci Star-Trek look and think the pieces can be worked into a wardrobe. There are places where that look can work, and there are women who can pull it off, but probably not most places.
My first thought about the 5 yards for the dress was that Rucci used a silk double cloth and that Vogue was having you self-line. But then why would they call for a china silk lining as well? I too am intrigued by this one. I haven’t ordered the patterns yet so you may learn the answer before me.
Hmm, I’m actually planning to get the Lynn Mizono patterns (2 and 4 in “Art is a Man’s Name”). And I assure you, I don’t fit the description you gave. I also like Sandra Betzina’s new jacket. The fabrication shown on the envelope is a horror show, but the basic lines are good.
Sorry, I think some of the Sublimes are just boring. The Rucci dress? eh. I’m not impressed. I’m sure it’s full of couture voodoo but to me, it looks like a blah shirtwaist dress.
The Laura Bennett dress? It’s lovely but we’ve all seen this a bunch of times, and I’m not able to wear a dress with a neckline that’s open to the waist.
I absolutely agree! We like the same ones, of course the “like” field was so small it didn’t really even require narrowing down. The RR Star Trek look was a little intriguing, but my first thought was “wouldn’t play well with seat belts.” I guess that isn’t always a big deal for all people, so it might work in specific places but yes, would get limited play. Maybe they’re cost cutting on designers? Oh no, wait, these are established people…. ? K
How did you read my mind? I agree so much, especially about the art-garments and the “lingery” stuff.
Except… the wearability of the art-garments. I don’t think they are for the skinny. I think everybody can wear them, because no matter what shape the body has, it is guaranteed that the wearer looks ridiculous…
[...] Shirasmane placed an interesting blog post on Fashion Tribes: Spring Vogue, From the Sublime to the RidiculousHere’s a brief overviewAmerican women can’t wear designs like these, because truthfully, only skinny people can wear baggy clothes. Every single one of these… [...]
Amen sister!
I like a couple of the art wear pieces. I personally like to wear things that are different. I don’t want to look like every twit walking down the street, or like every “sewist” working oh-so-hard to make clothes that look RTW. Yawn. And so what if full figured gals like it? Should they be relegated to wearing the Koos caftan (I personally am not full figured, but I’d still wear what I enjoyed no matter)?
Great post, like reading my mind on these new Vogue patterns.
Thank you for so eloquently putting what I have been thinking! I’m still so disgusted with Vogue’s instructions for the last dress I made that I am feeling very uncharitable towards them. But even if I wasn’t, the “art” pieces would make me skeptical.
Hooray that you are making the Ralph Rucci shirtdress! It was the only piece I loved in the patterbook–completely beyond my skills, too–and when i saw it I hoped that one of you gifted and generous bloggers would pick it. I can’t wait to see how yours comes out!
Love the post. Why, oh why, cannot the pattern companies give us stylish clothes? A little edgy maybe. But something wearable. Hello Vogue–anybody home?
Wow, I guess beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Thirty years ago I worked in the fashion biz in NY. My wardrobe was one of the ways I expressed myself. But for at least the last decade, shopping for clothes has become a traumatic experience. Ask my DH, I would always leave the stores either disgusted or in tears. For a long time, everything was so conservative and boring, Then for the last 3-4 years we have been stuck with the looks you included in your sections marked “2005″ and “time warp,” gathered sack dresses and tops that only look good on women who are rail thin and under 20 years of age. Everyone else ends up looking pregnant. Having “come of age” in the Annie Hall era, I have always felt gorgeous in floaty loose silhouettes. I wore them when I was young and rail thin and I wear them today, much older and wider, and I still look and feel good. I think ultimately the true measure of whether a woman looks good has more to do with whether she feels comfortable in her skin. Part of that is wearing clothes that fit one’s style and personality. Call me a clown, but I’ve already put the top four patterns on my shopping list.
Oh, I laughed at your descriptions of the ridiculous! You hit it!
Issey Miyake hasn’t done anything new in years because he’s been deceased for a long time, maybe 10 years? But I take your point about that baggy stuff. It’s the kind of thing that they are still selling at sewing shows, sadly.
I love this! Your Women’s Studies Prof had me LMAO! Yep, nothing here for me, except that Rucci shirt dress, I’ll have to get that one.
I think the most interesting result of the new Vogue patterns is the amount of conversation they have generated. If nothing else, Vogue has succeeded in driving alot of looksees to its website. Other than that, I think Vogue was trying to touch a little of everyone…I bet almost everyone saw at least one pattern, maybe more that they would purchase.
I know and totally understand all of Ann’s issues with the pattern instructions and there Vogue has really been negligent in the last few years but if these types of comments keep turning up on the internet…I am sure we will see some change in the not to distant future.
Very interesting post!
My sentiments exactly. Sure, I saw a lot of these items on the runway being worn by walking mannequins, but seriously — how do these translate to real life?
I too love this post,because it exposes, with humor, some pet peeves of mine. Having been a costume designer in films and TV, and today working as a style consultant and author of 2 style books (“Forever Cool” Random House 2007) and in 2 weeks to be on shelves, “Steal This Style”(Random House April,14,2009)..I realize that no matter one’s credentials–people are not always open to good style advice , because they feel they’re arguing “taste”. I happen to agree with the writer of this post, but noted all the dissenting views.
At the end of the day we are free to sew or buy whatever we wish–but not everyone understands, is interested or cares how others perceive their “look”. I’ve had to make “peace”with that awareness–in attempting my own effort to raise public awareness of their personal style and taste level.(www.sherriemathieson.com)
Great post, Phyllis. I agree with you on everything. I like V1102 for my daughter, with the bow. I’m thinking about V8570 for me this summer.
LOL Thanks for the very pointed critique. I pretty much hated these patterns. I have never been able to figure out Koos’s appeal, and this is pretty hideous. Who, but an A cup want to wear ruffles on her bust? Even then I shudder. The second Rucci is beautiful, but so doesn’t fit my lifestyle at the moment. And, yeah 5 yards? I’d like to know why too.
I’ll tell you why it takes 5 yards, more in my size. That macramed belt matches the dress, so I am assuming it is made from bias tubing of the fashion fabric. That would take up a lot of yardage.
You are too funny – someone like you should have been in the editing room….instead of “Step away from the caftan”…someone should have said “Step away from the patterns!”
This post had me laughing almost the whole time I was reading it. For the patterns in “Art is a man’s name,” I think one of the reasons they look so awkward is that the stylist paired a loose baggy top with a loose baggy bottom, and very few people can wear loose on top and bottom. I think if you look at each garment separately then the wearability increases.
OMG! Your post is spot on. I was thinking to myself, wow I must be behind or something. Is this all they have to offer. This supposed to be better than McCall or Simplicity. I am in the wrong business.
Speaking as a 20 year old who wears an A-cup, I sometimes find it hard finding patterns that aren’t designed for someone with an average to large bust and aren’t so age-neutral they could be worn by anyone from age 16 to 60. I don’t agree with you that those two look like lingere; they’re perfectly lovely sundresses for someone my age and with my body type.
Simply hilarious!
OK….I nearly wet myself laughing at your description of Ms. Professor Art to Wear. I just bought the Women’s Vogue pattern for the big baggy pants. I love baggy pants for summer and am rather….ah robust…in my size, wear big, bold jewelry and work in an academic setting. You nailed me!! So, was it my imagination or did you mean this in a not all together showing admiration and praise for my fashion sense?
Either way, I love your blog and your sense of humor!!
“I’ll tell you why it takes 5 yards, more in my size. That macramed belt matches the dress, so I am assuming it is made from bias tubing of the fashion fabric. That would take up a lot of yardage.”
And 10 self-fabric ball buttons, too.
I too found myself laughing with relief as I read this review. And thanks for opening my eyes up to the beauty of V8573 — my eyes had glazed over by the time I got to it first (and only) time through the new patterns. The lines are just gorgeous. I could see doing a detachable self-fabric bow. Leave it off for most occasions, stick it on for a fancy things.
I too enjoyed your description of the woman who wears this “art”. I have met her many times. You are humourous and eloquent. And your sewing is fabulous. Perhaps you could have a word on my pet peeve -the “artists” who wear their bedcoverings.
The Creativ Festival is happening in Toronto in two weeks. We will again be subjected to seeing middle aged women in their 3x sweats with loud, sparkly, quilted jackets appliquied with the likness of their favourite cats, dogs, and seasonal figures. They make me want to scream! Can’t we find a way to be creative and tastful while keeping current with trends and fashion?
Please help!
Very interesting site, Hope it will always be alive!
ROFLMAO! Very astute observations. I’m thoroughly enjoying catching up reading here.
What a great website you have! You are absolutely right.
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