I’m happy with the way this shirt jacket turned out - even though Marfy is pretty much an Outward Bound sewing experience, the patterns are expertly cut and they fit together beautifully. When I do tailored shirts like this, I turn into the Template Queen. Years ago I learned the hard way that the only way I can really replicate the crisp look of RTW shirt details is to use templates. I just can’t rely soley on my eyes and hands for neat and tidy details.
Details
There are a few design details on this shirt that really stand out: the topstitched bellows pockets with flaps, and the epaulettes. The beauty of a template is that each detail will look exactly the same - sure you do need to make them, but a piece of thin cardboard or a manila folder works fine and cutting them out takes just a few minutes of extra time. Here are the templates I made for this project:
The cardboard for these came from the back of a legal pad The big payoff with a template is nice crisp pressed edge for details such as patch pockets. The only other tools you need are a piece of silk organza to use as a press cloth and some spray adhesive to hold the template to the wrong side of the fabric (spray the template, not the fabric.) The template/fabric sandwich is placed right side down on a big piece of silk organza. Grab the silk organaza and use it to pull the fabric over the edge of the template as you press down the edge with a hot iron and lots of steam. Let the pressed piece cool completely and remove the template.
An Interesting Challenge
I must admit to being perplexed when I first saw the collar pieces. The fact that there were two of them made sense – there is an upper and lower collar, and they are different sizes as you can see – but the stand incorporated into the collar really had me stratching my head. The fashion illustration really looks like there is a separate collar stand, and in the end I decided that must be the case and seprated the two pieces (the photos below show them before they were cut apart.)
Another thing I do with a collar stand is to mark the stitching line all along the curve of the stand at center front – it’s just impossible to rely solely on my seam guide and still get a perfectly curved edge. If I mark the seam line there’s no guesswork.
Sizing
This is a 46 and when I orderd the pattern I used a Burda WOF size table to help me decide, and I erred on the small side. Still, after I did a muslin it was clear I had to narrow the shoulders a full 1/2 inch on each side – I do have narrow shoulders but over all the shoulder and back width seems large to me: 16 1/2 inches across the shoulders. I also shortend the waist a solid 2 inches and the sleeves 3/4 of an inch. The back was let out 2 inches below the hips and no adjustments had to be made for the front hip area. The patch pockets were moved down a bit so they don’t hit me right at the waist. The fabric is a Rayon Poly Stretch twill from Gorgeous Fabrics.
So – on to another Marfy! My Fall/Winter 2007-08 catalog just arrived, and inspiration abounds.
Wow, that is simply STUNNING, Phyllis. I just love the topstitching!
Phyllis, this turned out beautifully. Your topstitching looks perfect! Thanks for the tip on templates. This is a great shirt and I’m sure you’ll get lots of compliments on it.
I love the topstitching! You’re so right – templates make getting perfect much easier.
I got a chuckle out of your description of Marfy patterns: “Outward Bound sewing experience”. No joke!
This looks like it will be a real wardrobe Trooper! And those buttons are so intriguing. You truly are a perfect Detail Diva ’cause I think they look pretty good.
Hi! You did a great job. It looks very professional. I want to thank you for mentioning the Marfy patterns. I looked them up on the net and and goint to order a couple of patterns. i have to figure out what size to order. I like the way their patterns are cut and the fact that they fall below the belly on their tops.
Great looking garment!!! Very helpful information regarding templates. The extra time obviously pays off.
Thanks for getting yours done before I even unfolded mine! The drawing looks more fitted than reality, but I think I like it that way. I am going to have to get going on mine, now!
It looks so great, so professionally done! Thank you for that tip on using templates, it will surely come in handy.
Beautiful, Phyllis!
I’ve never cut a template before; what cutting tool do you suggest be used to cut from a piece of legal pad cardboard (great idea, btw)? Exacto knife? Box cutter? Thanks so much; your work is exquisite.
It turned out perfect! I love the topstitching!
Very pretty!
Marilyn, I just use a rotary cutter, a ruker and french curve to get a clean edge. It’s a good way to use those knicked baldes that you don’t want to use for cutting fabric!
I am in awe. It’s lovely and look *perfect*.
Nice crisp shirt, great idea to use templates. A pattern for a collar with cut on stand is very common, but I can understand why you were in doubt seeing the pattern sketch picture. The topstitching around the band helps to gives it a bit more body.
Beautiful!!! I use a template the same way to get crisp corners!
With friendship,
Lisa
Very inspirational, Phyllis! Your topstitching is beautiful. Thanks for mentioning the templates. I’m with you on being tired of the floaty, flimsy tops.
Hi Phyllis. I was wondering, I realize Marfy patterns do not include the seam allowances. when you encounter a patter piece such as the collar, did you extend the center fold line as well? In other words, I place the Marfy pattern piece on pattern paper and trace 5/8″ outside of the Marfy pattern borders. I just wasn’t sure if I need to do the same on the center fold line.
Thank you.