Oh Snap!

Long Sleeve Gray jacket With Collar in Mannequin

The snaps, I will admit, were kind of a pain, because, being such a conspicuous detail, they really need to (1) be sewn on well and attractively and (2) they need to aligned properly so that jacket overlaps correctly. No 1. was much easier than No. 2 believe me. However, I did hit upon a trick that might work you for as well, and I think it could be adapted for smaller snaps too. I always sew the female side of the snap first by marking the center with either a white chalk pencil or a sewing marker. Then I place a pin through the center hole and push the pin into a wine cork. I leave just enough space underneath for my fingers. The pin-and-cork keeps the snap from shifting while I tack it down with a single stitch in each hole. Then after making sure each female snap is in the right spot I permanently sew them with double waxed thread and a buttonhole stitch.

corck trick blue fin label

Attaching the male side of the snap is trickier. That process was a little different; first the snaps were set together and then the front overlapped. I then ran a pin through the fabric from the right side to find the center of the male snap, and I marked at the pin with chalk or a sewing marker. Then I measured out the radius of the snap from the mark, checked my edge measurement against the garment lines and tacked the male side down using a glue stick. Then I quickly hand tack edwith a single piece of thread, recheck the alignment by closing the snaps and then sew the male snaps with buttonhole stitches after I’m satisfied they match correctly. If I need to move a male snap that’s easy, glue stick is water soluble on fabric and I just dab it with a wet cotton swab. By the way, these faux tortoise snaps are available from Pacific Trimming in NYC (see this blog post) and they don’t have a very tight connection; I wouldn’t use them on anything that needs to take stress. This jacket would also look good with fabric covered snaps, as in the Burda original. Hammer set snaps and also regular buttons would be great.

The lining was set in by hand; I’ll admit that bagging a jacket lining is not really something I enjoy because it needs to happen right at the stage when I just want to finish up a project. I’d rather spend a few Zen moments hand sewing the jacket and sleeve hems to the fashion fabric rather than dealing with fussy clipping. That’s not a diss on anyone who bags their linings trust me. It’s a respected technique and it works too; I just don’t enjoy doing it.

Long Sleeve Gray Jacket Untucked

This jacket doesn’t have a CoudreMODE label, I think I want some bigger ones like Lindsay’s, which are available on Etsy. Next up is a denim skirt to wear with this jacket!