Click for a Closer View
Click for a Closer View
The snaps, I will admit, were kind of a pain, because, being such a conspicuous detail, they really need to (1) be sewn on well and attractively and (2) they need to aligned properly so that jacket overlaps correctly. No 1. was much easier than No. 2 believe me. However, I did hit upon a trick that might work you for as well, and I think it could be adapted for smaller snaps too. I always sew the female side of the snap first by marking the center with either a white chalk pencil or a sewing marker. Then I place a pin through the center hole and push the pin into a wine cork. I leave just enough space underneath for my fingers. The pin-and-cork keeps the snap from shifting while I tack it down with a single stitch in each hole. Then after making sure each female snap is in the right spot I permanently sew them with double waxed thread and a buttonhole stitch.
Click for a Closer View
Attaching the male side of the snap is trickier. That process was a little different; first the snaps were set together and then the front overplapped. I then ran a pin through the fabric from the right side to find the center of the male snap, and I marked at the pin with chalk or a sewing marker. Then I measured out the radius of the snap from the mark, checked my edge measurement against the garment lines and tacked the male side down using a glue stick. Then I quickly hand tack edwith a single piece of thread, recheck the alignment by closing the snaps and then sew the male snaps with buttonhole stitches after I’m satisfied they match correctly. If I need to move a male snap that’s easy, glue stick is water soluble on fabric and I just dab it with a wet cotton swab. By the way, these faux tortoise snaps are available from Pacific Trimming in NYC (see this blog post) and they don’t have a very tight connection; I wouldn’t use them on anything that needs to take stress. This jacket would also look good with fabric covered snaps, as in the Burda original. Hammer set snaps and also regular buttons would be great.
The lining was set in by hand; I’ll admit that bagging a jacket lining is not really something I enjoy because it needs to happen right at the stage when I just want to finish up a project. I’d rather spend a few Zen moments hand sewing the jacket and sleeve hems to the fashion fabric rather than dealing with fussy clipping. That’s not a diss on anyone who bags their linings trust me. It’s a respected technique and it works too; I just don’t enjoy doing it.
This jacket doesn’t have a CoudreMODE label, I think I want some bigger ones like Lindsay’s, which are available on Etsy. Next up is a denim skirt to wear with this jacket!
It’s a stunner!!! And I love the lining, it’s so unexpected. Thanks for the great cork tip – I never would have thought of that. My tortoise snaps are still sitting on my desk – just trying to decide what to do with them. So many ideas, so little time.
That is a great jacket! Love the lining!
I usually do snaps the opposite way. Male side first, then rub chalk on the protusion, lay the layers in correct position and press on each snap half to transfer the mark. BUT, I’m willing to try anything that gives me the kind of results you got with this jacket. It’s perfect. Congratulations.
Great looking jacket.
Great jacket! I hear ya on the Zen part. It really does do a soul good.
Thanks for the wonderful tip. It’s tips like this that make sewing much more fun.
thanks!
Fabulous jacket. I love the combination of gray and chartreuse green.(Big surprise since I am using it in my wardrobe) I do the chalk on the male snap too, but I’ll give your way a try. It’s easier to check the placement and I am just as anal about it as you are! The lines of this jacket are really modern and elegant.
It’s an amazing jacket and you can see all of the work that went into it! Awesome!
This jacket is just lovely! The color combination of fabric and lining is so fun. Bravo!!
Fabulous-looking jacket, Phyllis! Me too on hand-sewing linings. “Zen moment,” that’s an apt way of putting it. I’ll have to borrow your snap alignment technique ’cause I struggle with this.
Really, so classy and beautiful. I love gray and with the yellow it’s just gorgeous!
The jacket is wonderful – it is elegant and classy.
Phyllis…this jacket is so lovely !
…you do such beautiful work.
Love this pattern,and you did a BEAUTIFUL job.
This is beautifully done, and the snaps ad a wonderful accent to the jacket, especially the way you did them…Couture would have done it the same way.
Phyllis, I’ve enjoyed and admired your work for years. This, however, is not one of your better looking projects. Take a look at Paco Peralta’s blog. I know you’re familiar with it. Look at his seams. Pressed to perfection. Look at how the sleeves are set-in. Smooth. No dimples, pulls or wrinkles.
What I would do is take the lining out. The seams haven’t been pressed properly. Re-press the seams.
If the hem isn’t faced or ‘lined’ (I can’t remember the correct term) add a strip of silk organza, and re-do the hem. Press with a press cloth.
Take out the sleeves, undo the sleeve seams, re-press the sleeves, trim the armscye to 3/8″ and reset them. If you don’t have sleeveheads, attach them.
Before you reinsert the lining. give the entire jacket a final press.
Sorry if you’re offended. I think you’re work is wonderful, and I know that you care a great deal about excellent workmanship.
I’ve seen the jacket in person and it is beautiful.
Thanks, Ann. Glad to read this. Please, I didn’t mean any offense by what I’d written. I know from years of reading Phyllis’ posts, that she can REALLY sew well.
All we can go by is the picture(s). If my sewing needed what looked like more attention, I’d want someone to point that out to me.
Sometimes, more knowledge can be gained by our having to redo or rethink a project.
Anyway, no offense was meant. I hope that none was taken.
As a classically trained Tailor, I feel I need to make an observation. Since Phyllis has been so generous to show us the jacket partially open, the garment is quite naturally in “repose”. It is unrealistic and unfair to judge the workmanship when the garment is being displayed in a casual manner. From my years of professional experience, I can see that when this jacket is on the wearer the sleeves will be filled and the mistakenly perceived “less than attentive sewing” will merely be a observation made in haste.
Phyllis, this jacket is lovely.