This weekend I’ve been cataloging patterns as there is a good amount of work to do to get them ready for Etsy. I have a big spreadsheet going that will have all the pattern data: brand, year, decade, style, size, bust-waist-hip and condition. Quite a few are still in their factory folds and the ones that have been cut need to be looked at make sure all of the pieces are there. Then the envelope needs to be scanned front and back. I have a lot of great stuff but the ones that will be the least likely to sell are styles from the 80′s of course. A few of my sewing BFF’s have already seen this in email but it really needs to be shared with the world. Would you believe the Simplicity masterpiece on the left even in a size 6 (30.5 bust -23 waist -32.5 hip) requires 3 yards of 45 inch fabric. No way? Way. Its still in the factory folds too, which I guess is not too surprising. Gigi said it looks like something Joan Cusack would wear in Working Girl. Another fun thing is looking into the patterns from companies like Marion Martin that appeared in advertisements in local and national papers like Grit (a rural newspaper) and Parade (yes the magazine that comes with the Sunday paper.) These patterns don’t have a pictorial envelope like the Big 4, they were mailed in plain white envelopes that have the fashion illustration on the instructions. Two of them that I opened today are so pristine that I found inserts advertising other patterns; these direct marketing inserts are called “bounce backs” and are the same thing as the catalogs and extra junk you get in the box when you order from on-line retailers. Here is what they look like:
Based on some of the styles I think this comes from the early 1980′s. The fashion schizophrenia on the front is one thing (notice everything from pinafores to jumpsuits), but the crafts on the reverse side are something else entirely. A quilt of US Presidents? Why on earth would anyone put Richard Nixon on a quilt? How about a antimacassar that looks like a southern bell doll with a crocheted skirt? Or a dish towel embroidered with a bowel of pineapples that have human faces? Don’t for get the toys, such as a soft doll version of Betty Boop a character from the 30′s that by the 80′s no child would have any connection with.
This must be the high end stuff because there are no kitschy crafts on the reverse. I think this is the 80′s as well but a few years later, as we see some ginormous shoulder pads and that 80′s wedge dress that everyone wore in that decade (c’mon admit it I know you wore one and I did too). On the front side the designer names are Giorgio Sant’Angelo for Marjer, Frank Egitto, Eleanor Brenner, Lopez, Estevez, Vera Maxwell, Lavino Verna and Umba for Parnes-Feinstein. Style -wise we have the sublime (top view, the dress lower right corner) to the ridiculous (the kimono sleeve cardigan with the NFL-size raglan shoulder pads, bottom row 2nd from the left. ) The reverse side has the “Designer Collection” e.g. Frank Masandrea, Mitchel Rodell, Rona, Jayne Jay, Ayako, Bert Geiger, Fredlee plus Vera Maxwell and Eleanor Brenner again. Here I’m guessing the timeframe is a season or two after after Karl Lagerfeld took over Chanel because we see a Rona design top row called the “forever suit” . The best looks here are the suit on the far let with the shoulder drape, the sporty jacket on the top right and the cape and slim coat lower right.
Also – everyday on Facebook I’ve been featuring a pattern that I’ll have in my Etsy shop. If you want to see them leave a comment here on CoudreMODE and I’ll send you a friends request on FB. If you see a pattern on my FB status updates that you like I’ll reserve it for you when my shop opens.
Well…..back to my spreadsheet!







Those sleeves are massive! 3 yards–no wonder. Everything was huge in the 80′s.
I know some think that the 70s was the decade that style forgot, but I think the 80s can give a run for that title as well!
I don’t think that the 80s was so unstylish. I think that fashion now is terrible. It’s all low-rise, tight knits, short hemlines, and plunge necklines and puts everybody’s flab and muffin tops on show. The eighties fashions were a lot kinder to women. Now you get called frumpy because you are not showing your knees/chest. But if you show them and you are not a lissom lovely you get sneered at. There were some comic (fantasy type) elements to eighties fashion but it offered a lot more choice to a lot more body types than fashion for the last few years.
Wearing a wedge dress? I still have one hanging in the back of my closet. I wore that dress to casual and dressing events with just a change of accessories! I loved the ’80 clothes – yes, I know, I must be in the minority on that opinion. Looking forward to seeing all the patterns on you Etsy Store.
My theory for 1980s Marian Martin has always been that they were marketing to the exact same women who sewed their patterns in the 1960s, who were now substantially older and interested in comfortable, easy-to-assemble clothing that was reminiscent of their earlier wardrobes.
Enjoying your website… pls include me on your friends list so I may view your Etsy items. thank you
Yes please — would love a ‘friend request’ for Facebook. Thank you. Karen
Hmmm I thought I posted my question yesterday, but maybe not….
what is (or will be) the name of your etsy store? I’ve looked for “Phyllis” and “coudre”, and a couple other variations and have had no success. I’m just wondering since I don’t do facebook. Thanks!
how do you date the patterns?
I remember some of those ‘house dress’ patterns from the 60-70′s…
On dating patterns: I do research on the web on other vintage pattern sites if there is no copyright year on the envelope. It’s pretty easy to accurately guess the decade on the first pass, the only tricky part comes if the pattern is from a period where silhouettes are transitioning such as from the late 60′s to the early 70′s.