This Friday Ann is hosting Susan Kahlje at the Gorgeous Fabrics Studio and I finally fixed on my project. For a while I’ve wanted to make a Lagerfeld-era Chanel jacket. I really like this one from spring 2010 RTW. Photoshop is great for altering photos to pick up details; the highlights were darkened and the shadows lightened. As you can see there is more to this jacket than you might assume from the runway photo:
- There is a conventional shoulder seam
- The side panel is uneven
- The front black panel appears to be steam shrunk to keep the grain of the boucle aligned with the pattern piece
I also believe the black panel has been just laid on top of the upper bodice piece and stitched down; the white and black fashion fabric trim hides this lapped seam; a lapped seam also keeps the jacket fluid.
The trim is simple but ingenious:
- There is a lace underlay on the sleeves and the black panels
- The black panels also have double (looks to be bias) fashion fabric trim around the outer edges.
- There is a zipper closure
- The collar edge has more fashion fabric fringe as do the sleeves
Fortunately I found this jacket from Burda WOF to use as a base:
- The basic shape is the same in terms of the princess seam placement
- I’ll re-draft the two piece sleeves into a three-piece sleeves and shorten them
- The bottom of the armhole may need to be raised because this is an outwear pattern
- The collar needs to be a little wider and shorter
- The facings and other details are eliminated
- I’ll need to draft the front panel (the black pieces on the original)
Today I need to trace off the pattern and do traditional thread traced muslin so that Susan can help me fit and re-draft the sleeves.