Shirtmaking: The Journey So Far

Vogue 8747 is a crappy pattern. Crap. And it pains me to say that because I instantly fell in love with the style and just like in real life, falling rashly in love is not a good thing. My experience with this pattern is like your first serious relationship where you fell head over heels in love and yet it still didn’t work out. I tried so hard. I kept going back and working on it. Things would get incrementally better but not in ways that felt satisfying. Finally I came to the conclusion that it wasn’t me. It’s a crap pattern that’s all there is to it, it’s nothing personal, that’s just the way it is and after I finally came to this realization I went looking for something better. Fortunately, Simplicity 2339, which is part of their “Amazing Fit” collection, is in every way a superior Big 4 shirt pattern.

Stripe shirt long sleeve with neck high detail

Stripe shirt long sleeve with neck high detail

So let me quickly show you my biggest issue with Vogue: the draft of the armysyce – look at this thing! The difference compared with Simplicity is pretty stark in the photo. The Vogue armhole is very unconformable to wear, the sleeve binds badly through the back when I move my arms forward and I have normal arms too. This defect is pretty evident in this photo notice how long and deep the armhole is (Vogue is on the right). However I do still love the style of Vogue and maybe I can re-draft my Simplicity sloper to incorporate the design details from Vogue. In terms of my shirt-making skill set, I think Im a B minus student at this point. If you look closely there are many flaws!

For now however I just wanted to make up some basic shirts to get my fitting down and then I can re-style. This fabric comes from a summer trip to Mood, it’s a soft broadcloth with tiny alternating black and blue stripes. I have to say, Mood has a really great selection of shirtings. The ruffle is cut on the bias and the edges have a raw fringe, all I did there was use a really small stitch and a crewel needle to pull and fluff the fibers. The curved hem comes from a RTW shirt that I really love, I just laid it on top and traced off the shape. The only other design change is that I used the roll cuff sleeve pattern piece because it corresponds to the current RTW trend of a narrow shirt sleeve with minimal blousing at the cuff.

Simplicity 2339 is a well drafted basic shirt pattern and the armsyce draft alone makes this one worth adding to your stash.