TNT Diversion – Layout & Pattern Placement

skirt-layoutI decided to go with a single layer layout, and when I do these I just sort of eyeball how I want the fabric pattern to look.  I also do them right side up so I can get my head  around how the fabric will look will look in the finished garment.  The left side is a cut skirt piece laid over the fabric and on top of that is the right skirt piece. They are aligned and overlapped at center front; one very important thing to remember is that when you match fabric patterns across cut pieces you loose matching in the seam allowances.  This is why I aligned them at center front;  I can just move the the left pattern piece off my cutting table and cut out the right knowing it will align when I sew up the dress. 

There is more wasted fabric  this way, because to correctly align a fabric pattern you actually need to skip an entire repeat due to the space taken up by seam allowances.  In the end I think it will be worth the work to keep pristine the wonderful pattern in this fabric.

The bodice pieces also need to be taken into consideration because I didn’t want to lose part of the fabric pattern in a dart.  On the skirt you can see a short dart just to the right of a green vertical stripe.  I had to be careful this design element wasn’t lost in the vertical bust dart right above it in the bodice.  After I cut the skirt pieces I’ll work on matching the bodice pieces to the fabric pattern on the skirt at the waist seam.

3 comments to TNT Diversion – Layout & Pattern Placement

  • PVE

    Your experienced eye is making the most of this marvelous design print. The completed dress will be eye catching to be sure.

  • So happy to find you here. Love the new blog – have to get caught up – may not manage that for awhile yet.
    I need to get caught up on the Rucci dress, even though I know you’re setting it aside for a bit.
    LOVE the new graphic print on the layout table.
    Hope all the Diva posts will stay up indefinitely.

    Hugs, Marji

  • love the progress of how you are laying this out. Really seeing the print on the table is fabulous.

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